About 50 miles north of the Arctic Circle, I cling to a sheer cliff overlooking the Norwegian Sea, greater than somewhat stunned by the warmth. It is 27°C and I have been method too cautious taking 4 sweaters for the journey. Throughout are the brightest shades of blue, inexperienced and snowy peaks, illuminated by a solar that hasn’t set in weeks.
The summer season solstice might fall on June 21, however in Norway midsummer is marked with public bonfires on the night of June 23, St. John’s Eve. I am within the “mini-metropolis” of Bodø within the land of the midnight solar, the place guests’ physique clocks, like mine, can get severely confused. The solar stays a hard and fast worth right here till mid-July.
I strive Bratten Through Ferrata, the most recent attraction in certainly one of Norway’s quickest rising cities. It is the world’s northernmost through ferrata – routes that use metallic rails bolted into mountainsides – and one of many few the place climbers can stroll throughout the open sea.
“Not many individuals make the climb,” teacher Svein tells Inge Sjobu after we attain the second cease and strap our harness to the mountain and hold to admire the clear waters of the Vestfjord beneath. A brand new, parallel climbing path to the highest of the cliff has confirmed significantly common up to now.
I’m joined by Julie Abelsen from the vacationer workplace, who – together with Sjobu – grew up in Bodø, lived and studied elsewhere after which returned to settle. “Lots of people come again so their youngsters can have the identical experiences we did,” she tells me. The sense of group is powerful right here, from the bustling eating places and bars to the serene environment you are feeling as you stroll by Bodø.
Though small, with a inhabitants of round 55,000, Bodø will grow to be European Capital of Tradition subsequent 12 months, with actions centered round nature and uncooked components round it. There aren’t any direct flights from the UK, however I had arrived with Finnair on a one-stop route, through Helsinki.
From a celebration of Sámi tradition within the opening week in February to concert events in caves, the inventive group goals to create probably the most environmentally pleasant European Capital of Tradition.
In the same vein, the eating places round the primary sq. favor native produce – fish and reindeer are frequent in elegant locations like Bryggerikaia and Lyst På. For such a distant metropolis, the meals scene is numerous and thriving, with an array of high-end choices and international delicacies, similar to pan-Asian at OhMa.
Craig Alibone is certainly one of Bodø’s solely chocolatiers, having arrived within the metropolis from Leicester through France – his Pâtisserie and Champagneria is a neighborhood scorching spot. Since vacationer numbers are comparatively low, “we’ve to attraction to the identical viewers,” he explains as we style his do-it-yourself chocolate and macarons.
Whereas the craftsmanship of his confectionery, similar to his common Saltstraumen salted caramel truffles (named after one thing I’d quickly expertise), is sudden, the fantastic thing about the Midnight Solar shouldn’t be.
A superb place to witness the phenomenon is the High 13 Bar on the roof of the Raddison Blu lodge, which overlooks mansions, the railway station – the terminus of the Nordland Railway, Norway’s longest prepare route – and the Keiservaden mountain.
There’s one thing about figuring out that darkness will not come that provides the town an particularly tranquil summer season glow. Within the distance two homes stand alone on a hill, mountains nonetheless lined with the remaining snow of winter behind them and a sky nonetheless filled with colour and clear sufficient to make me imagine it might nonetheless be midday – however the streets are quiet sufficient to reassure me that it’s early morning and certainly time for mattress. I can perceive why admiring the midnight solar whereas climbing or on the water – after months of darkness – is drastically appreciated right here.
The subsequent morning I board a RIB from the harbor to cross the Saltenfjorden to the strongest maelstrom on this planet, the Saltstraumen. As we cross the water, Abelsen and Captain Esten speak concerning the energy of the vortex being stronger due to the brand new moon.
Eagles fly previous the boat consuming fish discarded by Estonians, some so shut they fly proper over our heads, their wingspans seeming larger than the boat itself. Again on land, the fishermen sit collectively looking over the ocean in entrance of colourful picket homes.
The water is calm, however Esten warns us to maintain our ft large in case large waves come our method.
As we strategy Saltstraumen, the water across the pool is slippery, virtually like a skinny layer of ice. The water spins in small circles after which bigger ones, the pull on the boat getting stronger as we get nearer, a number of whirlpools circulating with one another.
When the tide turns and flows out and in between Saltenfjorden and Skjerstadfjorden, 400 million cubic meters of water crosses the 150-metre-long strait, creating this drive of nature 4 occasions a day. The perfect time to go to is throughout full or new moon, so the situations are excellent – and the noise is immense. The spectacle has even been streamed dwell on nationwide TV.
Just like the red-sand seaside of Mjelle and close by Hovdsundet – whose slim seaside is lapped on two sides by emerald inexperienced water – each half an hour north of the town, the maelstrom is one more eye-opening expertise. Bodø could also be small, however its pure magnificence is extraordinary. And the Midnight Solar solely serves to assist guests see it at its greatest.
Learn how to get there
Finnair is presently the one airline with scheduled worldwide flights to Bodø, with connections from Heathrow through Helsinki, and in addition to Oslo, Bergen, Trondheim and Tromsø, finnair.com.
The place to remain
Radisson Blu Bodo has double rooms from £75, radissonhotels.com.
The place to eat and drink
OhMa, ohma-asian.nr
LystPa, lystpa.no
Bryggerikaia, bryggerikaia.nr
Kjerringoy Quayside lodge, kjerringoybryggehotell.no
Craig Alibone Patisserie & Champagneria, craigalibone.com/nr
Roast, fb.com/roastbodo?sk=information
What to see and do
Bratten Through Ferrata, climbs NOK 990 (£73), brattenviaferrata.no
RIB boat journey to Saltstraumen prices Nkr 1,095 (£81), exploresalten.no
Kjerringøy Buying and selling Publish, nordlandsmuseet.no/en/kjerringoy-handelsted
Extra data
bodo2024.no, visitbodo.com
