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This blockbuster list of limited-edition spirits, prestige cuvée Champagnes, and distinctive red wines will make you thirsty—and maybe a bit curious. I attended scores of spirits launches, Champagne soirées, and serious wine tastings to bring you the back stories of these remarkable bottles. To inspire, I’ve thrown in a few outrageously priced collectibles—a $10,000 bourbon and a $25,000 whisky—to fulfill the fantasist in all of us.
SPIRITS
Martingale Cognac ($120, 700ml)
Photograph by Joanna Lin
Cognac, a grape-based spirit originating in the 16th century, might feel like an ancient quaff in the 21stcentury, yet a new brand with a fresher, more fragrant style just hit the market this fall. One of the most prestigious families of grape growers and suppliers of eaux-de-vie to Cognac houses for over a century has launched its own brand, Martingale Cognac. At the helm are Guillaume Thomas (Founder, CEO) and Amaury Thomas (Co-Founder, Master Blender), fourth generation of the Thomas family, owners of a 600-acre estate across the top four Cognac crus. Aged between a VSOP and XO, the new Cognac opens with aromas of spring flowers, acacia, and almonds and has subtle floral and fruity notes on the palate and a soft finish with a hint of sandalwood. It’s a blend of four crus, each bringing its characteristics: Grande Champagne (strength and complexity), Petite Champagne (fruit, flowers, and spice), Fins Bois (structure and balance) and Borderies (fresh floral scents). Investors include names from the music and entertainment worlds like Donnie Wahlberg and Derrick “D-Nice” Jones, the latter of whom joined the Thomas grandsons at the spirited launch event.
Taylor Fladgate Golden Age, 50-Year-Old Tawny Port ($325)
Made from grapes sourced in the eastern reaches of Portugal’s Douro Valley and aged in Taylor’s cellars in seasoned casks for half a century, this stunning Tawny is a marvel. Taylor Fladgate’s dashing CEO Adrian Bridge, who climbs mountains and leaves Taylor Fladgate Port at the summit, presented the Golden Age Tawny and suggested it as the ideal gift for a fiftieth birthday. The rich copper-colored Port has enticing aromas and layers of unfolding flavors. Scents of clove, nutmeg and raisin are followed by quince, apricot, and orange zest, then tropical flavors emerge—fresh pineapple, passion fruit, and lychee—and finally on the long finish hints of toasty coconut, almond, and butterscotch. Tawny Port, once opened, can last for up to two months if stored in cool, dark conditions.
FUJI Japanese Whisky ($70, 700ml)
With aromas of orange liqueur, flavors of apricot, pear, and honey, and a silky, slightly sweet finish, this blended whisky from a single site expresses the terroir of the Mt. Fuji area. Master Blender Jota Tanaka appeared in New York this fall to celebrate the 50th Anniversary of the Mt. Fuji Distillery. He explained that the distillery is situated 7.5 miles from the peak of Mr. Fuji and uses the mountain’s snowmelt, which is clear, pristine, and soft, in the whisky production. Water is key to FUJI distinctive whiskies. Tanaka also introduced a 30-Year-Old Single Grain Whisky ($3,000, 700 bottles with 100 allocated to the U.S.), a delicately fruity blend of three different grain whiskies each distilled in different methods. “Single Grain” is an innovation of the Mt. Fuji distillery.
Woody Creek William H. Macy 10-Year-Old, Bottled-in-Bond Rye ($199, 750ml)
This new limited edition rye whiskey from Woody Creek Distillers was launched this fall by actor William H. Macy (Fargo, Shameless), a rye connoisseur and “spokesdude” for the distillery. Macy performed an original drinking song at the event in tribute to his namesake peppery, 100-proof rye, made from Colorado-grown 80% rye and 20% malted barley, and pristine Rocky Mountain water. The Woody Creek Distillery is situated eight miles northwest of Aspen and the area boasts many talented types including singer John Oates of Hall & Oates and formerly Hunter S. Thompson, whose regular sustenance was whiskey.
Monkey 47 Distiller’s Cut 2023 Schwarzwald Dry Gin ($175, 750ml)
A cult favorite premium gin from Germany’s Black Forest, Monkey 47 releases new Distiller’s Cut limited-edition collectibles every year since 2010. Out of botanical curiosity, Black Forest Distillers go on an obsessive hunt for exotic aromas and add a 48th botanical to the 47 botanical blend. This year’s Species Rara is Acre Saccharum, a maple syrup sourced from the sugar bush of the Cosman & Webb Farm in southern Quebec, Canada. Species Rara maple syrup adds a delicate sweet note of caramel to this complex, layered, and elegant gin. Last year’s 48th was Galium Odoratum or woodruff from the Black Forest, which brought out the gin’s top notes of cinnamon and vanilla with an underlying woodruff aroma.
Eagle Rare 25-Year-Old Bourbon ($10,000, 750ml)
Under embargo until its release on October 26, this is the oldest bourbon from the Buffalo Trace Distillery in Kentucky. Coming in a hand-blown glass decanter with a single sterling silver wing, the bourbon possesses aromas of “intense cherry, oak and dark chocolate, on the palate vanilla, dark fruit and butterscotch, and an extremely long finish with notes of baking spice and black pepper.” Master Distiller Harlen Wheatley came to New York for the launch and conducted the tasting for journalists and select industry people—one of whom asked to buy it that evening, which was not possible because the bourbon is strictly allocated. The $10,000 price will immediately soar on secondary markets. At 25 years old, Eagle Rare 25 is the oldest expression from Buffalo Trace’s Warehouse P, one of the distillery’s two experimental warehouses in a $20 million experiment program.
Lighthouse Gin ($50, 750ml)
This New Zealand gin from Martinborough—coming in a bottle inspired by the nearby Cape Palliser Lighthouse located at the southernmost tip of the North Island at Cook Strait—is crafted in small batches by Rachel Hall, the country’s first female Head Distiller. Exuding citrus, pine and hints of herbaceous aromas, the gin shows bright lemon zest, coriander, cinnamon, and cassia bark notes. The key to its pure bright flavor is the natural spring water sourced from an ancient aquifer. It’s composed of nine botanicals and distilled with Yen Ben lemons, which are higher in acidity than Meyer lemons. The gin is new in the portfolio of Sonoma Valley-based Foley Family Wines, who expanded into spirits and bought Lighthouse Gin to launch in the U.S.
Loco Blanco Tequila ($135, 750ml)
Crafted within the microclimate of El Arenal in Jalisco by Maestro Tequilero Alberto Navarro, this artisanal tequila is made by using ancestral practices, bringing the Blanco category to a higher more respected level. Working with Maestro Agavero Jose Antonio Sánchez López, the team hand-selects each agave piña from Loco’s proprietary fields and shaves off and discards any astringent plant matter that other distillers add to their distillations. The agave is slowly steamed in traditional ovens for three days resulting in a richly expressive Blanco with authentic agave flavors. Navarro, who authored Larousse del Tequila, the definitive book on tequila, set out to craft an ultra-premium terruño legacy honoring the ancestral methods of tequila making. Loco Blanco is very much a sipping tequila.
Royal Salute “The Coronation of King Charles III Edition” ($25,000 a bottle edition of 500)
Created as a gift for Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II on the day of her Coronation in 1953, the Royal Salute Scotch brand honors the British Monarchy at its significant milestones and releases new Scotch expressions to mark moments in history. On this historic year of King Charles taking the throne exactly 70 years after the brand’s creation, the Royal Salute “The Coronation of King Charles II Edition” was released as a collectible for the “new era of contemporary monarchy.” Sandy Hyslop, Royal Salute’s Master Blender blends the whisky using 53 rare malt and grain whiskies. Finished for more than two years in a first fill Spanish oak Oloroso sherry butt, the edition is a rich and complex whisky with an array of aromas and flavors including “red currants, dark chocolate praline, roasted chestnuts, sweet figs and fresh ginger,” per Hyslop’s tasting notes. Nathan Wood, the global brand ambassador for Royale Salute, invited journalists to Casa Cruz, New York’s exclusive private club, in April to taste the precious liquid from this rare collectible.
CHAMPAGNE
Bollinger R.D. Extra Brut 2008 ($440)
With major wine critics raving about the R.D. 2008 and awarding it close to 100-point scores, this Extra Brut, with only three grams of dosage, is highly aromatic and has notes of nectarine, apricot, marzipan, and ginger along with a spectrum of nutty flavors—almond, macadamia, and hazelnut. Composed of 71% Pinot Noir and 29% Chardonnay, which rested on its lees for 13 years, the R.D. (recently disgorged, late last year) Champagne has energy and shows a bone-dry, slightly saline finish.
Rare Brut Millesime 2013 Champagne ($220)
Champagne Rare’s iconic style is “blending minerality with a tropical twist.” With a delicate bouquet of white flowers, kiwi, and kumquat which intensify into a rich medley of chestnut spices, marzipan, and meringue, this vibrant champagne, composed of 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir aged 8 years on its lees, finishes with a smoky saline note. Rare makes the list every year not only because of its removable, golden tiara (to be worn into the New Year) but also its full-bodied, opulent blend.
La Grande Dame 2015 by Veuve Clicquot ($287)
La Grande Dame 2015, now in its 24th vintage since its initial launch in 1972, is celebrated for its key characteristics: “tension, elegance, precision.” With a blend of 90% Pinot Noir and 10% Chardonnay—honoring Madame Clicquot’s words, “our black grapes give the finest white wines,” the cuvée is from an exceptional harvest year of 2015. With seductive aromas of acacia, lilac, jasmine, and flavors of clementine, lemon, and ginger, it finishes with chalky minerality.
Cuvée Hemera 2008 by Champagne Henriot ($200)
The harvest of 2008 marked Henriot’s 200th anniversary, the year Apolline Henriot founded the Masion. Composed of six Grands Crus (Verzy, Versenay, Mailly, Avize, Mesnil-sur-Oger, Chouilly), with 50% Chardonnay and 50% Pinot Noir, aged for 12 years, the wine opens with subtle toasted aromas and balances citrus and minerality with a lacey texture. In a masterclass on Champagne Henriot’s prestige cuvée, which is always crafted from these six historic terroirs, Cellar Master and Vineyard Director Alice Tétienne described Cuvée Hemera as possessing grandeur, freshness, distinction, and restrained power.
Champagne Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Grands Crus Blanc de Blancs 2011 ($215)
This is an exquisite Blanc de Blancs from an exceptional vintage year with 100% Chardonnay grapes from top vineyards in the Cote des Blancs. Aged for ten years on its lees within the Taittinger’s 13-century chalk cellars, it has delicate aromas of peach mandarin, almond pastry, and refined bubbles. Vitalie Taittinger, the second generation who has recently become President, suggests Comtes de Champagne for life’s major celebrations.
Champagne Lanson Le Black Création 257 ($60)
Though all other sparkling entries on this gift list are prestige cuvée vintage Champagnes, Lanson just relaunched its multi-vintage Le Black Label as Le Black Création, and it is so good that it must be singled out. With a bouquet of pear and pastry, and ripe orchard fruit and grapefruit on the palate, Création 257 has energy and freshness. 257 references the number of harvests since Champagne Lanson’s founding in 1760. At a masterclass, winemaker Hervé Dantan explained that he creates this blend using 45% reserve wines from his reserve library with vintages going back 20 harvests as well as current vintage grapes from the house’s longtime growers with 100 different crus, and from the 140 acres of estate vineyards.
RED WINE
Fortunate Son “The Diplomat” 2019, Napa ($175)
Napa royalty created this red blend composed of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot with a tiny fraction of Petite Sirah from small vineyard blocks. Jayson Woodbridge—the winemaker behind the revered cult wine Hundred Acre that was launched in 1998 and in the next decades garnered a string of perfect scores wines—purchased the historic David Fulton ranch, a St. Helena winery dating back to 1860, and renamed it Fortunate Son winery. A leading critic compared it to a great Pomerol. Fortunate Son winery has a tasting room slated to open in summer of 2024.
Ca’ Marcanda Camarcanda 2020, Bolgheri, Italy ($250)
Ca’ Marcanda is the Gaja family’s Tuscan estate in Bolgheri, a region known for giving wine the characteristics of “balanced structure, moderate alcohol and a vibrant expression of freshness,” i.e. great food wines. With a bright purple-red color, this Cabernet-dominant blend has black currant, blueberry, and wild herb aromas—notably the classic Bolgheri scents of licorice, Mediterranean pine, and rosemary. As one of the first ten estates in a region that now totals over 60 wineries, Ca’ Marcanda, which the Gaja family acquired in 1996, has a charming Tuscan landscape with its 350 mature olive trees and towering Cyprus trees lining the vineyards, which, incidentally, are tended to by a twenty women viticultural team.
Simon Family Estate “Double Blessings” Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 ($350, sold as a pair)
Two distinctly different expressions of Napa Valley Cabernet, “Double Blessings” was inspired by vintners Nada and Sam Simons’ twin sons, Michael and Peter, and the bottles are sold as a pair. Winemaker Maayan Koschitzky crafted these two wines with exceptional fruit sourced from different vineyards. The “Michael” bottling takes grapes from cooler sites in Coombsville and Oakville and exhibits a firm structure and complexity with vibrant red and black fruit flavors and a dried herbal note. “Peter,” taking its fruit from the warmer vineyard sites in Oakville and St. Helena, is spicy and has softer tannins, making it more approachable and ready to drink. Both aged in new French oak, they have markedly different but equally intriguing personalities—like the twins.
Tresmano Tempranillo 2019, Ribera del Duero ($75)
Made from 100% Tempranillo from some of the oldest vines in Spain’s Ribera del Duero region, this intensely aromatic wine has aromas of blue flowers and red fruit with hints of smoke, toast, tea, and spice. Though complex and powerful, this cherry-red-hued wine possesses an elegant tannic structure and silky finish. Located on the Golden Mile where the top Ribera del Duero wineries are situated, Tresmano is a relatively new estate created by three veterans of the industry (Pedro Aibar, Fernando Remirez de Ganuza, and Jose Ramon Ruiz). Working closely with local growers, Tresmano maintains a 136-acre vineyard of old vine Tempranillo along with an olive grove with ancient trees.
Moone-Tsai Howell Mountain Hillside Blend 2019 ($170)
From an east-facing, hillside Howell Mountain vineyard perched at 2100 feet elevation and planted on an extreme slope, the grapes become thick-skinned yielding a wine with great structure and intensity. A blend of 62% Cabernet Sauvignon and 38% Merlot, aged for 18 months in 60% new French oak, this ruby-hued wine opens with scents of ripe black fruits, lavender, and spice, and shows rich blackberry, black currant, and cherry notes with hints of olive and earth on the focused palate. Concentrated, bold, and masculine, this classic mountain red blend has gravitas. Moone Tsai’s Bordeaux blends garner the highest scores from critics for these limited production wines.
Viña San Pedro Cabo de Hornos 2018, Cachapoal Valley, Chile ($80)
Named in tribute to the 17th century Dutch explorers who navigated Cape Horn, this stunning Cabernet Sauvignon has an inky black hue rimmed in red, mouthwatering berry flavors, and a lively acidity. Made with grapes grown in volcanic soils at 1500 feet above sea level in the Andean foothills, the wine is aged 16 months in 50% new French oak barrels. Chile’s Cachapoal Valley might be a lesser-known region for Cabernet than Napa or Bordeaux but “Cabo de Hornos,” coming in a heavy impressive bottle, proves the region can deliver quality.
Theorem Moon Mountain Syrah 2021 ($145)
This deep purple-hued wine has enticing aromas of violet, sage, and sweet tobacco, and voluptuous red plum, rhubarb, and blackberry flavors. Made from 100% Syrah grapes grown in a vineyard at 1,600 feet in elevation in Sonoma’s Moon Mountain district, the wine is reflective of its elevated terrain and is also influenced by cool nights and crosswinds from the Pacific Ocean and San Pablo Bay. After acquiring its home vineyard on Napa’s Diamond Mountain in Calistoga to grow Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, Theorem Vineyards added this second estate vineyard on Moon Mountain to grow many other white and red varietals and extend its portfolio of elegant wines crafted with exceptional mountain fruit.
Château Reynier AOC Bordeaux Supérior ($70, 3-liter bottle)
From the Bordeaux region of Entre-Deux Mers and a historic property with its fortified 15th century Reynier Manor, this rouge superior blend of 50% each of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, has ripe red berry fruit aromas, a good tannin structure and long finish. Descendants of the great Bordeaux wine-growing family, Marc and Agnes Lurton own Château Reynier and their daughter Pauline, 6th generation, joined the estate in 2019. Pouring from three-liter bottles, Pauline was in New York for the “Big Bottle Bordeaux” initiative along with other young winemakers from Château Biac, Château du Taillan, and Château Larrivaux.
